Istanbul, We’ll Definitely Be Baklava!

It’s no secret that my wife, Malissa and I love to travel. It’s this passion and ‘hunger’ to bring our most memorable travel experiences home, from which Angus & Oink was born. Recreating our ‘best bits’ by location and flavour, we take you around the world, one dish at a time. 

A few weeks back I was dispatched on reconnaissance to Istanbul, a city which has always always held a certain mystery for me. Layered with history - from pre-Roman empires to the Ottomans - it sits at the heart of ancient spice routes that carried flavours from far-off lands into Europe. It’s been a bucket‑list destination for years, and I got to tick it off with the best possible travel companion, my son, Lewis. 

I won’t lie, we were a little nervous given everything happening in the world right now, but never once felt unwelcome. Istanbul is vibrant, bustling, warm, and endlessly fascinating. 

We flew from Schiphol and checked into a hotel overlooking the Bosphorus. We watched  the constant flow of tankers heading toward the Black Sea, and passenger ferries weaving between cargo ships; it was mesmerising. Situated in Northwestern Turkey, and straddling both Europe and Asia, it is a gateway between East and West, and you can feel this fusion instantly. 

Three Streets Back 

Whenever we travel, we follow one rule: Three Streets Back. We walk, we explore and we look for food suggested by a guiding force of mine, American chef & author, Anthony Bourdain. We seek out places where locals eat and relax, rather than tourist traps and glossy front row restaurants. 

And so, with a local guide blazing the trail - we trekked ‘off the beaten track,’ in search of dining treasures and proverbial ‘holes in the wall’ to indulge our appetite for ‘food less travelled’ and we were spoiled with one delicious discovery after another… 

• Köy Kahvaltisi, a breakfast spread of Menemen (eggs with tomatoes and peppers),  and Sucuklu Yumurta (eggs with spicy sausage). Beyaz Peynir and Kaşar cheeses with black and green olives. Sliced cucumbers and tomatoes. Fresh, crusty Simit  (sesame-crusted ring bread), with Bal Kaymak (honey with clotted cream), butter, and fig jam, served with Çay (hot strong tea with lemon and sugar).  

• Iskender Kebab (at the very place it was invented in 1867). Succulent beef, bread chunks, soaking up a rich tomato sauce, with hot butter poured over the top just before serving; the ultimate indulgence.  

• Lamb cheek soup. At first this felt like a dubious choice but ended up being one of the most delicious dishes we tried. ‘Never judge a book by its cover’ and all that! 

• Pickles. The Turkish pickle everything and they’re a side dish staple. 

• Lahmacun (pronounced Lah-mah-JOON). Delicate, thin, and crispy flat bread, smeared with lamb paste and spices.  

• Balık Dürüm, fish kebabs doused with garlicky, lemony marinade and Biber Salçası (hot pepper paste). Skewered with vegetables and bay leaves and served with skordalia (a creamy garlic dip) or Cacık (yogurt with cucumber). 

• Baklava. In abundance. No apologies given. Boy trip! 

• Turkish ice cream. Despite the theatre and possible rage of not actually receiving your ice cream until the proprietor decides he has played with you sufficiently! 

• Kokoreç (pronounced ko-ko-rech). Lamb sweetbreads wrapped in lamb intestines, deliciously crispy when roasted over hot coals.  

Every stop was a flavour bomb. Every dish told a story, but it was the Adana Kebab that changed everything!  

Deep, smoky, rich, and cooked over charcoal. The lamb was more flavourful than the younger lamb we’re accustomed to in the UK. Coarsely ground, mixed with seasoning, red onion, and parsley. The kebab makers emulsify the blend, then flatten it onto a wide metal skewer, grilling it slowly over hot coals before wrapping in thin lavash bread with sumac onions, grilled pepper, and a spicy Urfa + Pul Biber (chilli sauce) - IT WAS UNFORGETTABLE. Our decision was swiftly made. This was the flavour we wanted to take home to Angus & Oink, the flavour we wanted to take home for you.